Thursday, January 24, 2019

Gelato on vacation

We went on vacation, which meant that I got that have-to-sew-something-new-for-vacation itch. And it just wouldn't sit there and not be scratched.

I had in my head a woven tank top, but I have zero woven tank top patterns.  I perused Lekala but didn't find anything like the idea in my head. Being cheap, and not seeing anything exactly like my idea, I decided to start with the Sorbetto pattern.

The Sorbetto was recently updated. I had sewn the old Sorbetto way back when I first learned to sew. It was one of the first things I ever made for myself, and I never wore it because it was horribly unflattering. I wasn't a huge fan of the new Sorbetto - I find the neckline too high and the shoulders too wide - but I lack the skills to draft for myself, so I needed to start somewhere.

To get to this silhouette from the Sorbetto, I:

1) Made a 1.25" FBA (for a total of 2.5" added) to the size 8.  My measurements fit the size 14, but FBAs are generally not optional if I want to get a good fit.  I cut the back at a size 8, but graded to the 14 in the waist and hips.  I ended up taking in the side seams from the armpits down about 3/4".  There is a lot of ease built into this pattern!

2) I lowered the neckline a bunch, and turned it into a v-shape.

3) I cut in those wide shoulders by 1.25" on each side.

4) I lowered the armholes, but that was a mistake; they are too low.

5) I added side slits and facings so that I wouldn't have to bind the neck and armholes.

6) I cut the back in two pieces due to lack of fabric, but this ended up being a blessing because I needed to take the back neckline in about 1/4", tapering to zero about 6" inches down the back center seam.

The top is sewn out of roughly a yard of linen leftover from a shirt I sewed my dad in 2017. This is the designer quality linen stocked by FabricMart, and it is good stuff.  I didn't have enough of it to make self-fabric facings, so I had to use scraps for those.

The top turned out really well.  If I make it again, I'll widen the straps just slightly as they only just barely cover my bra straps as is.  I also need to raise the bust darts just a smidge.  I'd probably lower and widen the V neck just a bit, and raise the armholes.  The side slits could also be about an inch deeper.

It's not quite a Sorbetto anymore, but it is a top that I am happy to have in my closet for warmer weather.

Thanks for reading, and I'll see you next time!

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