October was nuts. We had a birthday, a trip to the Amazon and our 12th anniversary. I had been in a bit of sewing rut, but this month pulled me out of it. I made a few things for myself and sewed a lot for my kids, which was one of my goals for this year.
Showing posts with label McCall's. Show all posts
Showing posts with label McCall's. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 6, 2019
Wednesday, February 28, 2018
Joining the M6996 party
This cardigan has been on my to-sew list forever. It gets great reviews, and all the ones I had seen in the blogosphere looked fabulous. The pattern is McCalls 6996, which I picked up during a $1 sale last summer but just got around to sewing up.
Wednesday, July 26, 2017
Linen pants
This year I started making seasonal sewing plans, trying to both use up some fabric from my stash, and create coordinates that I could mix-and-match. Most recently, I sewed what I guess could be trendily termed a "micro-capsule," which involved the two Pony tanks I posted about here, and this new pair of linen pants.
They are McCall's 7364, sewn out of this always-reliable slub linen from Joann's. I had in mind a particular idea for the pants I wanted, and this basic pattern seemed something that was pretty close and that I could tinker with until I got them where I wanted them. I liked the shape of the pant on the pattern envelope, as well as the front pocket on the shorts view. I knew I didn't want a drawstring waist (I never find that they stay up), but I planned to put a knit yoga waistband on the pants anyway.
So I made view E, the long pants, but with the pockets of view A, and I ended up cropping them a few inches. I cut a size XL according to my measurements (which correspond with a 20 - the XL is 20/22) and they were way too big. I should have taken a photo because my muslin looked like legit clown pants. I ended up cutting down the side seams to about the size L and then continued trying on the pants, pinning, and resewing the seams. From the size L, I made the following adjustments, some in the muslin phase, and others to the final pants while in progress:
I realized after washing and putting on these pants again, though, that I had done a lot of my alterations after the pants had already bagged out quite a bit - being linen, there is no recovery. So the just-out-of-the-wash pants (photographed with an olive green tank top) are a touch tight in the thighs. They do relax into the shape I want relatively quickly (see all the other photos).
My finished yoga band, made of cotton/lycra rib, is about 2" wide, and threaded through with 2" wide elastic. It's very comfortable and stays put. I originally tried to make a knit-fabric-only band that was wider (you can see it in the photo below, of the pants after I've worn them a bit), but they didn't stay up. So I had to cut the band down to fit the elastic I had.
I loved the shape, the length, and the breezy linen. The bum is a little baggy as seen below, but I always wear a longer top with them, so no one is looking at this view.
The back pockets are a bit too small; if I make these again I should enlarge them. But I really like the shape of the front pockets.
Since finishing these pants about four weeks ago, I've worn them at least twice a week. They are very comfy for our hot and sticky weather, and if I had time (I don't), I'd make another pair. I'm halfway through three men's shirts I need to make before we got to the beach in 2.5 weeks, so it's unlikely I'll be doing any more selfish sewing this summer. Luckily, I've already kitted my vacation wardrobe out pretty well this summer (see here, here, here, and here).
Thanks for reading, and see you next time.
They are McCall's 7364, sewn out of this always-reliable slub linen from Joann's. I had in mind a particular idea for the pants I wanted, and this basic pattern seemed something that was pretty close and that I could tinker with until I got them where I wanted them. I liked the shape of the pant on the pattern envelope, as well as the front pocket on the shorts view. I knew I didn't want a drawstring waist (I never find that they stay up), but I planned to put a knit yoga waistband on the pants anyway.
So I made view E, the long pants, but with the pockets of view A, and I ended up cropping them a few inches. I cut a size XL according to my measurements (which correspond with a 20 - the XL is 20/22) and they were way too big. I should have taken a photo because my muslin looked like legit clown pants. I ended up cutting down the side seams to about the size L and then continued trying on the pants, pinning, and resewing the seams. From the size L, I made the following adjustments, some in the muslin phase, and others to the final pants while in progress:
- Took in the side seams evenly at about mid-hip down to my knee by 3/8".
- Took in just the back piece side seam about 1" starting at mid-hip and ending a few inches above the hem.
- Raised the back by 1" at center and shortened the front rise by 1".
- Scooped out the back crotch curve by about 3/8".
- Took in both the front and back center seams by about 1" at the top, tapering to nothing halfway down.
- Took in just the back inseam by 1" at the crotch curve, tapering to nothing about 8" or so down.
I realized after washing and putting on these pants again, though, that I had done a lot of my alterations after the pants had already bagged out quite a bit - being linen, there is no recovery. So the just-out-of-the-wash pants (photographed with an olive green tank top) are a touch tight in the thighs. They do relax into the shape I want relatively quickly (see all the other photos).
My finished yoga band, made of cotton/lycra rib, is about 2" wide, and threaded through with 2" wide elastic. It's very comfortable and stays put. I originally tried to make a knit-fabric-only band that was wider (you can see it in the photo below, of the pants after I've worn them a bit), but they didn't stay up. So I had to cut the band down to fit the elastic I had.
I loved the shape, the length, and the breezy linen. The bum is a little baggy as seen below, but I always wear a longer top with them, so no one is looking at this view.
The back pockets are a bit too small; if I make these again I should enlarge them. But I really like the shape of the front pockets.
Thanks for reading, and see you next time.
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
McCall's 3341
I bought McCall's 3341 when I first began sewing seven years ago
(and lived within walking distance to a Joann Fabrics). I opened it for the
first time this spring, and was dismayed to find that it only goes up to pattern size 18. I was probably a 16 when I bought the pattern, but now I am a 20.
I almost threw in the towel right there, but I only needed to grade up one size, and the pattern only has four pieces. So if I was going to learn to grade, I really couldn't find an easier pattern to start with. It wasn't hard - I just slashed each pattern piece vertically and widened it 1/2" for a total of 2" increased all the way around.
For my first version, I used a "Famous Maker" stretch twill snagged from the remnant bin at Joann's. It's really nice stuff - substantial, but stretchy, with excellent recovery - and has done well in the washer, too. I made up the pattern as written, except I did not interface the facing. I was out of knit interfacing and I wanted to preserve the stretch in the fabric. This allows me to push the skirt down a little lower to make it fit better, and I don't miss the interfacing at all.
I accidentally cut view B (above the knee) instead of view C (just below the knee). So, instead of hemming, I finished the hem with some ready-made hem facing, inherited from my grandmother's stash. I know you're not supposed to use "vintage" thread; hopefully the same prohibition does not apply to Wright's Hem Facing.
Because of the stretch in my fabric, I ended up taking it in almost as much as I had graded out. After I made it I mentally noted that perhaps I didn't really need to grade up at all.
This skirt involved a lot of blind stitching. The pattern calls for both the waist facing and the hem to be blind stitched. I think I spent as much time on the blind stitching as I did on everything else put together - including the pattern grading! It was worth it, though - I wear this skirt regularly, almost every week.
So last week I made a second skirt. I used this very stretchy fabric and made a straight size 18. I skipped interfacing the facing on this skirt, too, because I wanted to preserve the stretch.
It ended up fitting me way up higher on the waist than I thought it should have based on the adjustments I made to the animal print skirt. I didn't really want to have to ease any width into the facing, so I ripped it out and resewed the facing together with 1/4" seams. This improved the fit a little, but I would prefer if the skirt sat an inch or so lower. Also, because of how high it sits, the back darts are about an inch too short. Finally, I drafted and cut out inseam pockets, but then I totally forgot to put them in, and I wasn't motivated enough to rip out my side seams to do so. I wore it to church on Sunday and really missed the pockets, though.
On the positive side, I remembered to cut the right view this time. I ended up hemming it up a total of 2" to get the length I wanted (1/2" fold over and then 1.5" hem). I had the perfect colored zipper in my stash (thanks, $1.99 bag of 20 zippers from the thrift store!) but not the perfect colored thread - I was too impatient to wait to go buy thread so the zipper was installed using emerald green, the closest match I had in the thread stash. The insides are all various non-matching shades of gray and blue - I may have used up the last of a couple different bobbins on this project. I did have a reasonable serger cone match though, so the seam finishes are coordinating
In making this skirt, I have come to the realization that I will have to add a new flat pattern adjustment to my routine - the full tummy adjustment. I'm pretty sure the fabric straining you see about my hips in the above photo is due to the mommy pooch on the other side of my spine. I have found a few tutorials explaining the mechanics of the adjustment, however, it seems like there's no way around making a muslin before you can figure out how much adjustment you need. For FBAs, I find I can make an educated guess just by measuring the pattern, and then am able to adjust the pattern fairly accurately before I even sew a muslin. But for the full tummy, I've not found anything online that tells me what to measure and how much I need to add for such-and-such a measurement. (If you know otherwise, I'm all ears!).
This skirt was a bit less successful than the first one, which I have worn probably three times a month since making it. In taking these photos I also realize that I prefer the length of the first one, so I may go back and hem this one a smidge shorter. However, I love the color of the fabric (to which these photos do no justice - it is a vibrant turquoise with a great depth of color to it) and will wear it regularly, probably with my shirt untucked. I won't be making any more of these until I can figure out the full tummy issue, though.
For my first version, I used a "Famous Maker" stretch twill snagged from the remnant bin at Joann's. It's really nice stuff - substantial, but stretchy, with excellent recovery - and has done well in the washer, too. I made up the pattern as written, except I did not interface the facing. I was out of knit interfacing and I wanted to preserve the stretch in the fabric. This allows me to push the skirt down a little lower to make it fit better, and I don't miss the interfacing at all.
I accidentally cut view B (above the knee) instead of view C (just below the knee). So, instead of hemming, I finished the hem with some ready-made hem facing, inherited from my grandmother's stash. I know you're not supposed to use "vintage" thread; hopefully the same prohibition does not apply to Wright's Hem Facing.
Because of the stretch in my fabric, I ended up taking it in almost as much as I had graded out. After I made it I mentally noted that perhaps I didn't really need to grade up at all.
This skirt involved a lot of blind stitching. The pattern calls for both the waist facing and the hem to be blind stitched. I think I spent as much time on the blind stitching as I did on everything else put together - including the pattern grading! It was worth it, though - I wear this skirt regularly, almost every week.
So last week I made a second skirt. I used this very stretchy fabric and made a straight size 18. I skipped interfacing the facing on this skirt, too, because I wanted to preserve the stretch.
It ended up fitting me way up higher on the waist than I thought it should have based on the adjustments I made to the animal print skirt. I didn't really want to have to ease any width into the facing, so I ripped it out and resewed the facing together with 1/4" seams. This improved the fit a little, but I would prefer if the skirt sat an inch or so lower. Also, because of how high it sits, the back darts are about an inch too short. Finally, I drafted and cut out inseam pockets, but then I totally forgot to put them in, and I wasn't motivated enough to rip out my side seams to do so. I wore it to church on Sunday and really missed the pockets, though.
On the positive side, I remembered to cut the right view this time. I ended up hemming it up a total of 2" to get the length I wanted (1/2" fold over and then 1.5" hem). I had the perfect colored zipper in my stash (thanks, $1.99 bag of 20 zippers from the thrift store!) but not the perfect colored thread - I was too impatient to wait to go buy thread so the zipper was installed using emerald green, the closest match I had in the thread stash. The insides are all various non-matching shades of gray and blue - I may have used up the last of a couple different bobbins on this project. I did have a reasonable serger cone match though, so the seam finishes are coordinating
In making this skirt, I have come to the realization that I will have to add a new flat pattern adjustment to my routine - the full tummy adjustment. I'm pretty sure the fabric straining you see about my hips in the above photo is due to the mommy pooch on the other side of my spine. I have found a few tutorials explaining the mechanics of the adjustment, however, it seems like there's no way around making a muslin before you can figure out how much adjustment you need. For FBAs, I find I can make an educated guess just by measuring the pattern, and then am able to adjust the pattern fairly accurately before I even sew a muslin. But for the full tummy, I've not found anything online that tells me what to measure and how much I need to add for such-and-such a measurement. (If you know otherwise, I'm all ears!).
This skirt was a bit less successful than the first one, which I have worn probably three times a month since making it. In taking these photos I also realize that I prefer the length of the first one, so I may go back and hem this one a smidge shorter. However, I love the color of the fabric (to which these photos do no justice - it is a vibrant turquoise with a great depth of color to it) and will wear it regularly, probably with my shirt untucked. I won't be making any more of these until I can figure out the full tummy issue, though.
Sunday, May 22, 2016
Me-Made-May Roundup #2
Selfie fatigue is a real thing. Never having participated in Me-Made-May, I didn't really understand what people meant when they said they had it. But I already do. It probably has partly to do with the fact that I really just wear the same clothes over and over again all the time - they are constantly being smeared with snot and mud so there's no point in subjecting lots of different garments to that sort of treatment. That's my life these days. So my photos are pretty monotonous.
And it's been rainy for 95% of May so far. But I'm still truckin' on Me-Made-May in general. I had pledged to wear me-made four times a week, but I've only missed four days so far.
May 9: I wore my Made By Rae Josephine blouse with my Lisbon cardigan. I love this blouse but the elastic is just a teeny bit too tight around my arms. If I fixed that, I'd wear it a lot more often.
May 10: Still rainy and dreary - I wore a Plantain tee and my trusty Lisbon cardigan.
May 11: Finished up the day in a pair of me-made cozy thermal knit pj bottoms and ... what else ... my Lisbon cardigan over a RTW tank top.
May 13: Slightly warmer, with a hope of sun which sadly went unfulfilled. I wore a my rayon Plantain/Renfrew mash up tee with a ponte knit pencil skirt.
May 16: Once again, I wore thrifted jeans with a me-made tee and my trusty Lisbon cardigan. At this point I stopped Instagramming the photos because they are so repetitive!
May 17: Another cold and rainy day. I wore my long-sleeved Renfrew tee and the Lisbon cardigan. I did actually start sewing a second cardigan today but it is lacy and more of a evening-out kind of cardigan than a cozy ward-off-the-unseasonable-chill cardi.
May 19: Rayon Plantain/Renfrew mash-up again with my first Colette Mabel.
May 20: A brand-new Kirsten Kimono tee in a beautiful thick and drapey knit, worn with a rtw maxi skirt. By the end of the day it was stained in three places. This is why I usually do not buy white fabric.
May 21: The same thing I wore on May 4: my navy and white striped Plantain and a denim quarter-circle skirt.
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