I got it in my head to make a short-sleeved version in green linen, and was planning to buy some of this vibrant emerald-colored yardage from FabricMart when it next went on sale. But then I remembered that I had a cut of 50" wide linen/viscose/elastane crepe woven fabric purchased last July. It's not emerald green but it has a fantastic drape and I love the color, plus stash-busting. None of these photos capture the color accurately - it's a couple shades deeper and is unmistakably green. Incidentally, I believe the fabric was used for this skirt, currently going for $450 at Neiman Marcus. I still have a bit over a yard left of the cut and will need to think of a good use for it, as it is really lovely.
This dress is much the same as my last one, with a few different fitting adjustments due to the stretch fabric and short sleeves:
- I sewed the side seams at the prescribed 5/8" instead of taking a smaller seam as I did last time.
- I straightened out the side seams somewhat by taking a wedge off, starting at the hemline and tapering to nothing at the widest part of my hips.
- I sewed the top of the neckband at a 1" seam allowance this time to lower it 3/8". I like the depth of the neckline now, but I do find it just a touch wide, and would like to widen the shoulders a smidge to bring the neckline in towards center front.
- I partially undid my original 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment by moving the shoulder seam back to its original position at the neckline, but keeping the adjustment at the sleeve hem. Looking at these photos, though, I don't think I need the adjustment at all, which is weird, as I ALWAYS need a forward shoulder adjustment.
- I found the short sleeves to be too floppy, so I took in the shoulder 5/8" at the hem, tapering to nothing at the neckline. This reversed the full bicep adjustment I had done on my first Portfolio; I guess I only need the extra room if I'm making the long-sleeved version.
- I had a lot of excess fabric above the bust, a couple inches in from the armpit, so I ended up taking two fish-eye darts in that area above the bust.
I've realized lately that while everyone seems to love pockets, I'm not a huge pocket fan. I mean, they're handy to have, but in lightweight dresses and skirt, I find that when I actually put something in my pockets, it weighs down the garment. In this dress, maybe because the neckline is still a touch big on me, I find that the dress shifts across my shoulders in the direction of the pocket containing my keys or phone or whatever. This annoys me enough that I prefer to only keep tissues in my pocket. That said, I definitely love the look of these pockets and will keep sewing them in future versions.
I wore this all day during a mid-April visit to Colonial Williamsburg in 80-degree (and humid) weather. It was the perfect choice for the weather and the venue. All of these photos were taken during our trip, hence the wrinkles.
As always, thanks for reading, and see you next time!