So it's official, I have Bonn fever. I haven't had any good button-down shirts in my wardrobe since I got pregnant with Niko and outgrew the Lisette Travelers I made in 2014. I'm rapidly filling those holes, and now I present Bonn #3!
I made this one in the long-sleeved view. I think I will probably make them all long-sleeved from now on. I like a full-length sleeve in chilly weather, and when it's not so cold, I just roll them up, so this will make them more versatile. The sleeves did end up a bit short so I will need to lengthen it about 1.5" on my pattern piece.
Like on my second Bonn, my bust darts are an inch lower and an inch shorter, the shirt is lengthened 1.5" and there is a 5/8" forward shoulder adjustment. This time I also deepened the V in front by 1". I forgot to do this on the pattern, so it was an afterthought alteration after my pattern pieces had already been cut. I need to redraft my pattern to include this change. I am forever lowering necklines as I usually find a lower neckline to be more flattering on my large bust - it seems to have a minimizing effect.
The sleeves are pleated to fit them into the cuff. I didn't read the instructions carefully enough, and I stitched my pleats closed rather than basting them. It doesn't really matter, though, given my predilection for rolled up sleeves.
I am scratching my head a little on the forward shoulder adjustment. I've read a number of different tutorials on the forward shoulder, and I see two different methods - the first calls for shortening the front shoulder all the way across, and adding back to the entirety of the back shoulder. The second method, which is the one I use, calls for subtracting from the front outer shoulder edge only, leaving the neck edge as is, and drawing a diagonal line between the two. I use this method because it makes sense to me that only my outer shoulders are forward - the part attached to my neck can't really migrate forward because it is attached to my neck. But maybe I need to do it the other way, because the adjustment I made hasn't totally worked on this shirt - it still migrates backwards.
I didn't mention hemming in my other two Bonn posts, but I had quite a difficult time making the small hem on the curved shirttail. I ended up with a flippy hem on the linen one even after I redid it. This time I used a triple-stitch method that now I can't locate to link for you, and it was better, although I still find that the hem flips up after I wash it. It's really annoying, but I have had RTW shirts do that too. Does anyone have any tips there?
As it's summer now, I haven't worn the shirt much lately. But I'll be pulling it back out for heavy rotation later this fall, and I even have this fabric stashed away in the black/gray/white color (100% cotton shirting, from Walmart of all places!) to make another one. It's definitely a winner.
Thanks for reading, and see you next time!