I've sewn the pattern twice before, and each time I've had to make a number of adjustments to get it to fit my body. Some of those adjustments were alterations done on the fly, and I still didn't have it quite right. So this time, I reprinted my pattern and made another muslin.
Thanks to the second muslin, I think I finally cracked the magic combination of pattern alterations to get it to fit me the way I want. Firstly, I realized that the shoulder is just too wide for me, even though I have been using my high bust measurement and doing an FBA. So this time, as usual, I started with the size large C/D cup with an FBA (using a French dart that angles up from the waist rather than a horizontal dart). I also narrowed the straps, mostly from the armscye, which I also lowered and scooped out a bit at the armpit to deal with excess fabric.
Wait, I'm not done yet. I also did a forward shoulder adjustment, shortened the straps by 1/2" (so maybe I lowered the armscye too much), lowered the neckline and made a hi-lo split hem. My muslin also had some back neckline gaping. I am sure my original Josphines had this problem too, but I guess I have been so used to back neckline gaping that I didn't really notice it. All my fitting practice has got me looking at my clothing more critically now. To fix the gaping, I turned my single back piece into two pieces with a back seam. I sliced an inch off the pattern piece at the top center back, tapering to nothing around my waistline, and now the back neckline sits beautifully.
The pleats (and also frugality and laziness when it comes to tracing/printing/cutting a new pattern) are the reason that I stuck with this pattern despite the fact that it just doesn't fit me at all, out of the envelope. I probably could have modified a different pattern to add the pleats, but I didn't want to. And all's well that ends well, except now I have a hankering to refit the sleeved pattern too, for fall, which will involve more armscye tinkering and a totally new sleeve.
For now, though, I'll enjoy my breezy new top. Thanks for reading, and see you next time!