Hi! Welcome back! We're very excited to show you how to sew up these super-awesome jeggings. (Part 1 of this tutorial, wherein we made our pattern pieces, is here.
Yesterday we made our pattern pieces; today we will cut them out of our fabric and sew them up. It won't take long. I am posting directions for both the no-waistband version and the waistband version in this tutorial.
Note: I did most of this on a serger, but you can do it on your regular sewing machine. Use your stretch stitch if you have one - if not, you can use a narrow zig zag. You can leave the seam allowances raw as they will not fray, or finish them with a zig zag.
First cut out your pattern pieces. You need to cut two of each, and you will be cutting them all (except the waistband and back pockets) as mirror images of each other . I do this by folding my fabric and cutting two layers at once, like so:
When you're done you will have:
2 front legs
2 back legs
2 pocket bags
2 pocket linings
2 back pockets
(optional) 2 waistband pieces
Now we are going to make our back pockets. Fold down the top along your seam allowance (mine is 1/2) and stitch it down. I used a twin needle to make it more jean-like.
Press. If you want to add decorative stitching across the back pockets, now is the time to do it. I did not add any.
|I really need a new ironing board cover.|
Next fold the sides in along your seam allowance, press and pin in place.
Now pin the pockets in place on your back leg pieces. I didn't mark the pocket placement on my fabric. I lined up the pattern piece next to the fabric and just eyeballed it.
Now let's assemble the front pockets. Stitch the pocket lining to the pocket bag with right sides together, around the outer curve.
Now pin the pocket lining, right sides together, to your front pant leg. The curve should match perfectly since we created the pocket lining piece by tracing the pant leg pocket curve. Pulling the pocket bag out of the way so you don't stitch through it, sew the pocket lining to the pants.
Flip the pocket lining to the wrong side of the pant leg and press. This is what it should look like from the front:
And this is what it will look like from the back.
Now if you want, you can topstitch the pocket opening. I used a twin needle for the jean-like look.
On this pair, I used a contrasting pocket lining, and as I pressed it I rolled a little of the contrast out of the pocket to let it peek out a little, like faux piping. I'm super-thrilled with how it turned out.
Now let's make our faux fly. On the front pant leg that will be on the wearer's left side (the one in the photo above, actually), mark your fly placement. For this 2T pant (plus about four inches of length) I put mine about 1.5" in from the side, and 3" down from the top, then drew a curve. If you are making a larger size, you can make your fly deeper and wider.
You can draw it on your fabric or just put that presser foot down and wing it. Stitch the line with a double needle.
After you have done this, you can baste or pin the pocket bag/lining to the pants at the top and at the side, to keep them from shifting during the rest of the construction process.
Now sew the front pants to the back pants, right sides together. You will be sewing them together along the straight edge.
OK, we're almost done.
Now, if you are not making a separate waistband, you can return to your regularly scheduled legging pattern to sew up the legs and crotch seam.
After you sew up the crotch seam, if you like, you can topstitch the rise with a double needle to make it look more like jeans.
You will find that there is a little bit of bulk at the top when you make your waistband casing, because you have all those layers of pocket fabric. It will be ok, just go slow and make sure your seam allowance is wide enough for your elastic. And when you're done, your pants will look like this:
After you have sewn your leggings together using your pattern instructions, it's time to attach the waistband.
First, take your two waistband pieces and sew the short ends together, right sides together. If you did not alter the seam allowance, it is the same as the seam allowance as that specified for the rise (crotch seam) in your leggings pattern.
Next, if you would like, you can finish one long end of your waistband. If you use your serger, make sure you don't cut off any of the fabric.
Now pin your waistband to your pants, right sides together, matching side seams and center fronts and backs. I found that they weren't exactly the same length - I must have erred on my seam allowance somewhere - but I just stretched them to fit. It's knit, it's forgiving.
Sew or serge your waistband to the pants.
Now press the waistband and the waistband seam allowance up, away from the pants. I know you're tempted to skip this step (I was, too) - but don't, or you may end up with wonky topstitching later.
Now fold the waistband over to the wrong side of the pants, making sure to cover the stitching line with the fabric, and pin it in place from the right side. Take your time with this step so that you can ensure the waistband is an even width all the way around, and that your topstitching will catch the back of the waistband.
Starting an inch or so to the wearer's left of the center back seam, topstitch with a 7/8" seam, leaving about 2" unstitched so that you can feed the elastic in. Then feed your elastic through using a safety pin pinned to one end, adjust for the wearer's waist, and stitch that elastic closed.
Now close up that unstitched portion in the back by topstitching over it.
TA-DA! You just made jeggings.
Time to give yourself a pat on the back.
Or maybe do a little soft-shoe around the sewing room.