Thursday, March 7, 2019

Cupro Cropped Calyers

You guys, I'm really pretty excited about these pants.  They turned out almost exactly the way I planned/envisioned.  They go with a good chunk of my tops.  They represent an evolution in my style (I don't think there's any way I would have been caught dead in baggy, elastic-hem pants a few years ago).  And, they are the first finished item from my first-ever Make Nine.

These are the Calyer Pants from French Navy Now.  I tested the patter before its release about a year ago, and I wore my first version quite a lot during the spring and summer 2018.  But they were made of rayon challis, which I've learned isn't a sturdy enough fabric to withstand these thighs, and a few months ago, the fabric just gave out.  I've been plotting a new pair ever since.

Geeky fitting information: I am 5'8" and my current measurements are W33 H 43. These are an XXL with the front rise shortened 1.75" (it's quite long).  The pants initially came out far too big in the bum.  It was sag city back there.  So I took them apart and scooped out the back rise about 3/4".  I also took a wedge off the back inseam.  I'm not sure exactly how much I took out, but I think it was about 1-1.25" at the top of the inseam, tapering to nothing about 6" down.  I then took some of the length off the back inseam to deal with wrinkles I was having back there - maybe 3/4" - which made the front inseam longer than the back.  I eased the top 8" or so of the front inseam into the back inseam.  This helped quite a lot, but it wasn't the best fix.  What I really need is one of those horizontal fish-eye dart adjustments under the bum - but, sadly, these don't work so well after you've cut into your fashion fabric (trust me, I tried it, thinking maybe the seam wouldn't be so noticeable ... it was).

Sigh.  So they're not perfect.  But, happily, the back view of these pants looks much better in these photos than when I'm looking at my butt in the mirror. (And this never happens - I always think things look great until I see photos!)

After deciding that there were no further alterations I could try to de-sag the bottom of the pants, I pranced around in front of the mirror with the hems pinned up at different heights.  As drafted, the Calyers are full-length pants with no elastic.  I ended up shortening the pants about 3", and elasticized the hems to give them a bit more of a harem-pant feel.

This is a very nicely designed pattern.  I particularly love the pockets (and I'm not usually a pocket freak), and the topstitched inseams.  I just need to work out the fitting over my bum, and then I could see making another pair or two of these - maybe in a more colorful linen/viscose for the beach.

The fabric is 3 yards of Halston cupro/nylon/spandex twill (at least, that is what Fabric Mart said) - but I don't think there was actually any spandex in there).   I actually ordered 2.5 yards but got the end of the bolt.  Good thing, too, as I used the entire length of the yardage and only have a large scrap left.

I'm digging the casual, sandwashed fade of the fabric. It's very spongy, and drapey, and needed to be pressed quite firmly with high heat and steam through a press cloth before it would behave.

I don't think these pants will get that much wear in Bogota, sadly.  Although I was comfortable taking these photos on our terrace yesterday, 30 minutes later the temperature dropped and I had to get changed before taking the kids to story time and swim lessons. I changed from this outfit into jeans, boots, a knit top and a wool cardigan ... if that gives you any indication of the crazy daily temperature swings up here in the Andes.

But, as taking these photos has made me feel much better about the back view of these pants, I can't wait to take them on our next trip to warmer climes.  And that's about all I've got to say about this project.  As always, thanks for reading, and see you next time!


  1. I love these on you, the sheen of the fabric is gorgeous.
    xx N

  2. These are so nice! Teh fabric is lovely.


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