A sewing blog about building a functional, cohesive handmade wardrobe, one garment at a time.

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Itch To Stitch Lisbon

It's very rare that I buy a pattern the second it comes out - I think it has only happened once or twice, in fact.  But when I saw the Itch To Stitch Lisbon cardigan drop the other day, I bought it immediately and printed it out that evening.

Cardigans have always been staples in my wardrobe, but I only had two that fit - one a heavier wool one with a hole in it, and the other a light pink one that is a bit dressy.  The latter is also too light in color to wear daily - at least, that is the case when one has prodigiously stain-producing children who manage to stain your clothes more often than they stain their own. So there was a Lisbon-shaped hole in my closet and it had to be filled.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 12 in the shoulders, bust and waist, grading out to a 14 in the hips.  I was really tempted to size down, but kept reminding myself that this is a cardigan, meant to be worn over shirts, so I restrained myself.

I did a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment as well. I really always need one.  But as you can see, the cardigan dips down in front a bit. I can't work out in my head whether this means I didn't need an adjustment at all, or whether I needed a larger one.  Or maybe it's just how I'm standing.  Since I took these pictures I've been too busy feeling incredibly comfortable in the cardigan to notice any issues.

I found the pattern very well drafted.  Everything matches up, and the instructions are clear and thorough.  I did find that I had to stretch my neckband absolutely as far as it would go and only then would it juuuuust fit the bodice.  My fabric had about 70 percent stretch (the pattern recommends 50 percent), so I might in the future cut a slightly longer neckband to give myself wiggle room.

I also had a little bit of trouble fitting the button bands to the front bodice.  I believe this had to do with the drapiness and stretchiness of the bodice fabric, and the non-drapiness and non-stretchiness of the interfaced button band.  I used knit fusible interfacing, however, the pattern piece instructs you to cut it so that the stretch runs horizontally.  If I had cut it so that the stretch ran vertically, I would have had a little more wiggle room.  So I ended up having to ease the bodice into the front band, which proved impossible with this stretchy, drapey fabric.  I did my best, but still ended up with a few tiny tucks in the bodice where it attaches to the button band.

I used a stashed rayon/lycra French terry bought last year from Fabricmart.  This stuff is so soft and squishy.  It is super-drapey and has a heavy feel to it when the fabric is just in your hands.  But it doesn't feel heavy when it's on, at all.  It feels light but cozy.  And I think I have enough left for a pair of the coziest little girl leggings ever.

We have had uncharacteristically dreary weather for nearly two weeks now and this cardigan has been worn almost every day since its creation, including in the evening over pjs!  It is that comfortable.

I do want to make another one (or two) but my sew-jo is on fire right now, and I have tons of other plans in the works! Love it when that happens.


  1. Oh, this looks great Masha. I also have cardigan shaped holes in my wardrobe - I have the Jenna pattern but have yet to try it. Shall check this pattern out (although can't buy it this month due to my MMMay pledge!)

  2. It looks like a great, comfortable closet staple! And your pattern review of it was perfect, I feel like I totally know what to expect if I buy this pattern now. Well done!

  3. I love it Masha! I bought the new Grainline cardigan almost the second it came out and have some fabric picked out for it and everything! I also feel that a person can never have too many cardigans, since I wear one almost every day.

  4. I love cardigans. I wear them all the time too, even here in Texas! And I think it's actually hard to find good ones in the stores. Wool is too itchy for me but I'm also picky about acrylic blends. This is perfect and it looks great on you!

  5. What a great looking and functional cardigan!


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