A sewing blog about building a functional, cohesive handmade wardrobe, one garment at a time.

Monday, September 25, 2017

Bonn #4

Another week, another Bonn (affiliate link).  Don't worry, I've decided that after this one, I should probably crack open a different button-down shirt pattern as I round out my fall and winter wardrobe. But the newest horse in my stable is made out of what appears to be a cotton/linen blend shirting I recently ordered from FabricMart.



This one is a size 10DD with a 1 1/8" forward shoulder adjustmen. Both the body and the sleeves are lengthened 1.5" and point of the V neckline is an inch lower.  Now, maybe because of the lower-v and the forward shoulder, the neckline isn't as open as I'd like and I notice that the back neckline is just a bit too wide.  I am thinking of reducing the length of the neckline and collar (ok, maybe I will make another one sooner than I had thought).

Like on my last two Bonns, the bust darts are an inch shorter and an inch lower, and the sleeves are a size 10 with a 1.5" full bicep adjustment.  I find on this one that the sleeves are a little too voluminous below the elbow.  I think they look great rolled up, though (and the extra volume makes a neat roll a little bit easier).


I ended up hemming the shirt with self-fabric bias binding.  I did have to redo it once, as I had forgotten to clip the seam allowance before turning it up, but once I did that, the hem fell flatter than the hems on any of my previous Bonns (though still not completely flat, grrr).  I just can't seem to figure out how to hem a curved shirt tail satisfactorily.

Also, I want to note for future Masha that this shirt used up 64 inches of a 57" wide fabric.


Like my other Bonns, this one is sure to be a regular in my fall and winter rotation.  It's not actually warm enough to wear it yet (and I'm totally ok with that), but I imagine I'll be reaching for it in a few weeks.

8 comments:

  1. This is such a great style on you, it's no wonder you just keep making more and more! The shoulder fit looks perfect with your recent adjustments. Is it comfortable to wear? I am realizing I probably need to figure out the forward shoulder adjustment one of these days ...

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes, it is super-comfortable! Thanks! The forward shoulder adjustment is quite easy. I find that I hAve to adjust the sleeve cap forward too on woven patterns (but not on knits), but that is also a pretty easy fix.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Just make another one!
    Heck, when I am on to a good thing I totally stick to it.
    xx N

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's settled then. Thanks for the encouragement!

      Delete
  4. Masha you are the queen of perfect fit. And plaid matching. That involves so much effort!

    ReplyDelete
  5. I’ve been quietly admiring all of your Bonn shirts, and the print matching on this is great! And your fitting, of course, as Rachel says is perfect. Did you ever find any good tips for hemming so it doesn’t flip up? I have that problem a lot too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Emi! I haven't gotten any tips so I guess I'll just keep trying. I might continue with the bias binding (which was actually a tip left on a previous post) but make it narrower next time.

      Delete

Hi! I am so happy you came by. Thanks for your comment!